Urban Skin Solutions, Oakland Acne Specialist, Ethnic Skin Expert, Black Skin Care » Razor Bumps

Shaving, Haircut & Hair Removal Rules

Kat — Sat, 30 Jan 2010 23:03:34 +0000

Do plan to communicate with us on a regular basis until (a) total clearing is achieved, (b) you’ve stopped “bumping up”, (c) your shaving habits are ‘on point’ and (d) you’re consistent with your home care and new shaving method.

Do shave with the PFB Bump Fighter or BIC Disposable for Sensitive Skin with an unscented shaving cream, gel or soap, or use a sanitized non-rotary liner or clippers. Use disposable razors only once.

Don’t attempt to use those double, triple, four or five-blade “closer-shaving” razors if you’re bump-prone. The first blade stretches the skin, while the other blades shave too close, cutting the hair off below the skin line. When the skin “bounces back”, those hairs are set up to be trapped repeatedly under the skin every time you shave that way.

Don’t tweeze or wax your ingrowns and don’t let anyone else do it for you. Tweezing and waxing are not permanent hair removal. When these hairs start to regrow (in two to three weeks), they get trapped in the curved hair follicle below the skin line. Those areas quickly become “hot spots” of chronic ingrowns, thickened skin and scarring, so resist the urge to get in that mirror to tweeze or pick.

Authorized release: Do unhook visible surface ingrowns with a sterile needle and snip the hair off with a clean cuticle scissor. Do not attempt to “dig out” deep ingrowns!

Don’t pick at your bumps or tamper with your skin. This introduces secondary bacteria, leading to inflammation, delayed healing, larger dark blemishes and scarring.

Don’t even think about trying a rotary shaver. Circular blade motion cuts the hair in every imaginable direction. Count on major trouble if you’re even slightly bump-prone.

Don’t stretch your skin and shave upward, against the grain, or go back and forth over the same spots trying to get a closer shave. The built-in trade-off is shaving less close and more often. The reward is smooth skin and fewer bumps

Don’t use those trimmers designed for shaping eyebrows from the beauty supply store.

Don’t use depilatories or shaving powders (which contain lye) if you want to achieve an even skin tone. Dark beard “shadowing” is caused by repeated chemical burns, inflammation and sun exposure.

Don’t forget to spray clipper disinfectant on razors, clipper and/or liner blades, guards and attachments before and after shaving to kill bacteria and prolong the life of the blades. Don’t forget to take it with you to the barbershop. Do watch for barbershop sanitation (or lack of it).

Don’t attempt to take a blade to your face for the very first time until you understand how to shave and what to shave with. You must be using the appropriate products to discourage shaving bumps.

Don’t try to use the same clipper and liner blades for the rest of your life. Do change your clipper, trimmer and liner blades every three to four months. Take them with you to the beauty supply to make sure you purchase the right blades.

Don’t share your clippers, trimmers or liners with anyone….ever.

Don’t over-scrub your skin or rub your face with a towel. Instead, blot your face dry with a soft hand towel or a Viva paper towel. Don’t wipe off sweat; blot dry instead!

Do plan to purchase home care product refills before you run out, and don’t slack up on your routine.

Don’t get electrolysis unless your practitioner uses the ‘blend’ method and has lots of experience working with darker skin tones and curved hair follicles. Ask us for a referral.

Do explore laser hair removal if your practitioner uses a laser designed specifically for darker skin tones and is experienced working with people of color. Ask us for a referral.

The material on this website is provided for educational purposes only, and is not to be used for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment.

Beating the Bump

Kat — Sat, 30 Jan 2010 23:01:21 +0000

Pseudofolliculitis barbae, known as razor bumps, is the number one complaint among black men and women who shave or perform other hair removal methods. Caused by stiff facial hair and a genetically-caused curved follicle, the hair tips reverse their course and literally penetrate and grow back into the skin, like a horseshoe, before they would normally exit. Similar to hundreds of splinters, these trapped hairs incite an inflammatory response, causing soreness, redness and swelling. This reaction, called “bumping up” creates perifollicular papules best described as swollen, pus-filled lesions blanketing the beard, or other shaving area.

Similar problems can affect women on the chin, sideburns, neck, chest, abdomen, legs and in the bikini area from tweezing, waxing, shaving and sometimes even depilatories. The sensations experienced by the razor bump (ingrown hair) sufferer are constant itching, tingling, burning, soreness, swelling and sometimes real pain. Symptoms can be mildly annoying and localized for some, and severe and extensive for others.

Pseudofolliculitis barbae is a chronic condition that can persist as long as the individual shaves, waxes, threads, and/or tweezes. Obviously, the problem can be dealt with by just allowing the hair to grow out. As the hair grows longer, it simply pops out the follicular opening and new “bumping up” ceases because the individual has stopped shaving, waxing or tweezing. This option, however, is not always practical due to the pressure of one’s employer, lifestyle, beauty and grooming customs.

Strict grooming regulations have been historically imposed by law enforcement agencies, fire departments, parcel delivery services and the military. These and other industries have traditionally insisted on the clean shaven look, and this has caused suffering and disfigurement to thousands of black and bump-prone men. In recent years, consciousness has gradually increased and some rules are slowly changing. Some branches of the military, most notably the Navy, are allowing extremely bump-prone men to sport a short, neatly groomed beard.

For decades, viable solutions to this universal problem eluded the medical, esthetic and drug store markets, and continue to do so on a wide-scale basis. Most physicians have relied unsuccessfully on topical steroids, retinoid creams and systematic antibiotics.

Over-the-counter and mailorder systems have utilized single edge blades, weak cortisone creams, bromelain enzymes, abrasive scrubs and alcohol-based salicylic acid solutions. While these methods can help improve the condition, they rarely offer total clearing or longterm relief. As a result, this all-too-common skin disorder presents a wide open arena for knowledgeable esthetic practitioners. Clinical skin care pros can dispense exfoliating, calming and antibacterial professional products (exfoliating masks and scrubs, AHA exfoliants, BPO, skin brighteners, acetyl salicylate solutions and hydrocortisone) and have the skill to release ingrown hairs correctly in a safe setting.

Shaving Habits: We instruct our clients to shave in the direction of hair growth with a single-edge disposable blade like the PFB Bump Fighter or Bic for Sensitive Skin, which is used once or twice and discarded after use. Examine the shaving area and determine which areas are less “bumped up” than others. Carefully imitate the shaving method and direction you use on the clearest areas, and repeat the same process on the entire shaving area.

Do not repeatedly go over the same area in a back-and-forth motion in an effort to get a closer shave. Use fragrance-free shaving creams, mild shaving soaps and gels containing benzoyl peroxide or alpha or beta hydroxy acid, which work well with single-edge disposable blades. The blade should be used no more than once or twice.

If the preferred shaving method involves an electric razor, we prefer the traditional barber’s trimmer, called a T-edger or liner, which gives a close, more precise shave that larger clippers. An example of this compact trimmer is the Wahl, designed for black men who shave, but Oster, Andes and other trimmers work equally well. Professional disinfectant spray (Clippercide or Oster) must be used before and after shaving to disinfect and lubricate the blades.

We include wives, mothers and girlfriends in the consultation. They are often the ones who wield the sewing needles and tweezers, or observe the picking, digging, unhooking, tweezing and other types of skin tampering habits at home. Tampering with the skin of introduces secondary bacteria and leads to inflammation, delayed healing, scarring and larger, thickened dark spots. Tweezing, threading and waxing trap recently removed hairs deep below the skin line, and set them up to become trapped again and again as they re-grow.

Avoid rotary shavers that cut beard hair at too many different angles, seriously compounding the problem. The skin should never be stretched to obtain a closer shave. When the skin bounces back, newly-shaved hair will be situated (and later trapped) below the skin line. The same principal applies to twin, triple, four and five-blade razors; the first blade stretches the skin, while the second (third, fourth and fifth) blade(s)s shave(s) way too close.

Depilatory creams and shaving powders should be discouraged once one of our anti-bacterial, keratolytic topicals is applied nightly in the bump prone area without irritation. Use of depilatories leads to dark hyperpigmentation of the lower face and neck, sometimes called “shadowing”, caused by chemical irritation and subsequent sun exposure. Melanin-suppressing skin lighteners should be introduced gradually in the absence of irritation and allergy. During the day, gentle skin brigheners, greaseless anti-inflammatory creams and oil-free full-spectrum sunscreens are vital to correcting and discouraging beard discoloration.

Electrolysis: Those with chronic “trouble spots” (often on the neck or cheeks where tweezing was performed repeatedly) might want to explore the “blend method” of electrolysis for problem areas. The electrologist should be skilled and experienced in the treatment of black, bump-prone clients with curved, often scarred, hair follicles. The curved follicle, healing process, risk of scarring and hyperpigmentation, as well as inflammatory reaction to the temporary “trauma” of electrolysis can differ radically from other races.

Laser hair removal has become increasingly popular in recent years to gradually and permanently reduce hair on the face and body. It is important that candidates do their homework to steer clear of the risks related to lasers, especially scarring and hyperpigmentation on darker skin tones.

Laser practitioners must:

(a) Use the safest, most appropriate laser for darker skin tones, like the YAG Q-switched neodymium yttrium aluminum garnet laser that produces a 1064nm wavelength of laser light.

(b) Be well-trained and experienced in the use of that laser.

(c) Disclose exactly what that laser can and cannot do for you, i.e. delete light, gray or white hair, and tell you how often you must go for treatment, usually every 4 to 5 weeks.

(d) Be experienced working with your ethnic skin type.

(e) Be able to address pre-laser pain management, disclosure of permanent cosmetic tattoos, reduction of post-laser inflammation, the need for melanin suppression (to control pigmentation) and sun protection/sun avoidance, removal of mineral make-up and physical sunblock before laser treatment, and be able to treat post-laser skin issues if they arise.

The material on this website is provided for educational purposes only, and is not to be used for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment.

Dealing with Dark Spots

Kat — Sat, 30 Jan 2010 22:53:38 +0000

How to Delete Dark Spots and Brighten Uneven Skin Tone

Of all the skin disorders that affect skin of color, hyperpigmentation is the chief complaint. Skin problems, medications and medical conditions and many other factors, including minor “skin insults”, can lead to skin discoloration.

Possible causes include acne, razor bumps, sunburn, sun damage, chemical irritation, hard water, dehydration, eczema, allergic reactions, insect bites, prescription medications, hormonal melasma, pregnancy, hormone pills and devices, obesity, auto-immune disease, chicken pox, skin infections, cold sores, smoking, shaving irritation, depilatories, waxing, tweezing, electrolysis, product overuse, abrasive scrubs, friction, scrubbing your skin, wiping your eyes, rubbing, picking, tampering with your skin by any means, tight and/or ill-fitting headgear, underwear, clothing and footwear, trauma, burns, minor injuries, surgical procedures, lasers, IPL and microdermabrasion.

Hormonal and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation on all races and skin types can be improved dramatically with light skin peels, topical alpha hydroxy acids and retinoids in formulations containing melanin-suppressing skin brighteners, sun avoidance and diligent use of non-clogging, full-spectrum sunblock suited to skin type. The “must do” list includes (1) taking a complete health history, (2) addressing lifestyle issues that cause or worsen the problem, (3) starting a skin brightening regimen, (4) getting professional skin peels, (5) adhering to safe sun practices, and (6) monitoring product overuse, sunblock under-use and sun exposure.

Address the cause of the skin problem, and the factors that can worsen it. Only then can pigmentation problems can be improved or overcome. If you have acne, razor bumps, “rashy” skin, tamper with your skin, fail to follow instructions, have serious underlying medical problems, take sun-sensitizing medications or are overweight, these issues must be factored in to your plan of action.

Active skin brightening “cocktails” can contain mild glycolic or lactic acid (fruit acid exfoliators that act as “vehicles” to deeper tissues), dimethyl isosorbide (gentle, penetrating vehicle), retinoids (deep-penetrating active vitamin A derivatives), hydroquinone (FDA-approved skin lightening ingredient), l-ascorbate (stable, absorbable form of vitamin C), and the following melanin-suppressing brighteners: kojic acid dipalmitate, alpha arbutin, azelaic acid, vitamin K, mulberry extract, bearberry (beta arbutin), licorice extract, niacinamide (vitamin B3), emblica extract, Tego® Cosmo C250, Gigawhite™ , mandelic acid and citrus juice extracts. Patch-tested and used exactly as directed and in the right formulation, there is a low incidence of irritation or allergic reaction.

It is important to discuss past skin brightener and fade cream usage (especially hydroquinone) and subsequent reactions, amount of daily sun exposure, sunblock usage (or lack of use) and the need for sun avoidance. Passive sun exposure, like riding in a car, waiting for the bus, working in the sun, gardening and outdoor sports poses the greatest risk. Many people mistakenly feel that they don’t need sun protection for brief intermittent sun exposure or because they have a darker skin tone.

Tips for Success

Lose weight. Dark pigmentation is easier to address if you lose weight. Fat cells alter the body’s hormone levels and can increase darkening and sun sensitivity.

Address the exact cause of your discoloration, including acne, razor bumps, shaving irritation, excessive, sun exposure, failure to apply and reapply sunscreen, insect bites, tweezing, picking, scratching, over-scrubbing, product over-use, depilatories, heaters, obesity, weight gain, friction, ill-fitting shoes or clothing, medications, harsh or inappropriate treatments, dehydration, health issues, hormones, etc.

Avoid the sun, use the right sunscreen and reapply often. Use a product that contains high levels of micronized zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide. Apply a generous amount, massage gently until it disappears and reapply often. Don’t forget your neck, chest, arms, feet and hands.

Reapply sunblock often, especially when driving, walking, golfing, running, swimming, skiing, gardening, outdoor work, football practice, doing double days in training camp, etc.

Get your car windows tinted to the legal limit. Keep that sunroof closed too.

Protect the orbital eye area. Wear large 100% UV protective sunglasses the cover the entire eye area. Prescription eyewear that “transitions” when you go outside may not darken enough in cars and buses and are usuallyway too small to do the job. Don’t be fooled by overcast skies because the skin-darkening UVA rays penetrate clouds and windshields. That’s when you need protection the most.

Don’t try to rush things! If your skin gets irritated, you may be overusing your active lighteners by applying them too thick or too often.

Get professional treatments every two to four weeks in the absence of irritation. Exfoliation and brightening procedures boost your home care efforts.

Get follow-up evaluations often to review your overall treatment plan, product potency and usage, safe sun practices, health and lifestyle.

Get refills before you run out or you may have to start over.

Do not use scented products on any sun-exposed body parts, even with sunscreen.

Wear 100% UV protective sunglasses at all times.

Do not scrub your skin if you start to peel or flake. Don’t use washcloths, buffing pads or abrasive scrubs. Ask for help if constant flaking is an ongoing issue.

Follow directions. Apply your active brightening products (a) exactly as directed, (b) in small amounts, massaged all the way into the skin, and (c) in the total absence of irritation. Avoid the entire mouth area and smile lines every other day if you’re directed to do so. Avoid sensitive areas for a few days if they become darkened, too dry or irritated.

Never attempt to ‘dot’ lighteners onto the spots only.

Never apply a thicker coat of your skin lightener to dark areas. This will cause light “halos” around the dark spots and patches, and cause irritation and rebound darkening of those areas.

The material on this website is provided for educational purposes only, and is not to be used for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment.

Staying Clear

Kat — Sat, 30 Jan 2010 22:47:06 +0000

Lifestyle Issues That Can Affect Your Skin

Reduce your stress. Do whatever it takes. Stress, a major acne aggravator, is caused by the wear and tear of day-to-day living and changes that take place in your life, both good and bad. Moving is comparable to the death of a child in its ability to cause extreme stress.

Sleep seven uninterrupted hours per night on a consistent basis. Night shift jobs, broken sleep, late night time management, insomnia, hormonal changes in mid-life, long plane trips and crossing time zones causes severe physical stress, making it harder to clear acne and lighten dark circles.

Laundry products must be FREE of perfumes and dyes: Cheer Free & Gentle, All Free & Clear, Tide Free & Gentle, Tide Cold Water Free, Tide 2xUltra Free, Arm & Hammer Free of Perfumes/Dyes, Purex Free & Clear, CVS Free, ShopRite Ultra Free & Clear, Rite Aid Free, Seventh Generation Free & Clear, Safeway Select Free and Costco Kirkland Free & Clear Ultra. Safe bleach: Clorox2 for Colors Free & Clear.

Avoid laundry additives, enzymes and fabric softeners, including fragrance-free dryer sheets, which leave a waxy residue that can clog pores and irritate skin. Instead, try dryer balls, which are chemical-free, last forever and are good for the environment. Use 25% less detergent, and wash 25% less clothes at a time. If possible, run an extra rinse cycle. Imported designer jeans and scarves are sprayed with toxic fungicides, pesticides and formaldehyde, and must be washed multiple times before wearing to avoid body acne, skin infections, rashes and discoloration. Victoria Secret bras, shown to contain the carcinogen formaldehyde, have been linked to toxic skin reactions, even after they’ve been washed.

Avoid dietary iodine: Dairy products (milk in coffee beverages, cheese, ice cream, sour cream), processed foods, take-out food, frozen dinners, fast food, canned food, soft drinks, salty snacks, salted nuts, canned, packaged and restaurant soups, ramen noodles, tomato juice, V-8, seasoned salt, iodized salt, salty condiments, Gatorade, Propel, PowerAde and other high-sodium sports drinks (Vitamin Water is OK), energy drinks, seaweed, Chinese food (salty sauces, MSG, soups, soy sauce), Mexican food (cheese, sour cream, refried beans and salted tortilla chips), processed meats (lunch and deli meat, hot dogs, bacon, franks, hot links, sausage) and condiments containing kelp, MSG and/or iodized salt.

Peanuts, peanut butter and wheat germ contain hormones and can cause breakouts. You can enjoy other nuts, as long as they’re unsalted. Try almond and cashew butter. Cold and flu meds with sodium and bromide (Alka-Seltzer® and Bromo-Seltzer®) can aggravate acne. Avoid kelp, sodium, iodine, seaweed and spirulina in nutritional supplements and green detox programs. Take with meals: GNC iodine-free Women’s Formula Multi, zinc monomethionine (with meals), enteric-coated fish oil, flax seed oil, MSM, probiotics (Align®, Culturelle®, Jarrow®) vitamins C and B-complex. Can’t sleep? Estrovan PM®, Alteril®, valerian root and melatonin. Hormonal? Estrovan Maximum Strength®.

Skip the dairy: Cheese, milk, ice cream, sour cream and dairy-rich coffee drinks. Dairy is linked to acne, allergies, weight gain, digestive problems, water retention, high blood pressure, bloating and many other health problems. Concerned about calcium and vitamin D? Eat lots of dark green veggies and take supplements with calcium citrate, magnesium and vitamin D. On cereal, try ice-cold naturally good-tasting almond or rice milk. Soy milk is better than cow’s milk, but is processed to taste better, contains hormones, sugar and fat, and can be difficult to digest.

For more information, see: http://www.notmilk.com/kradjian.html

Caution: Fish and seafood from “questionable” sources, can cause persistent skin problems, including a rash-like acne. This doesn’t seem to happen in better restaurants. If your acne is treatment-resistant and rashy, try eliminating fish and seafood from your diet for a month or two.

Avoid seasoned salt, which contains iodine and MSG. Try a blend of iodine-free sea salt, Mrs. Dash Table Blend, garlic powder, onion powder, black pepper, paprika and cayenne pepper.

Get professional treatments including enzyme peels with steam, light chemical peels and tune-up peels formulated for acne, dark spots, scars, ingrowns and razor bumps. Professional treatments exfoliate the skin evenly and help home care products penetrate better. Power bleaching and other skin-smoothing “boosters” will enhance the results dramatically.

Irritated? Constantly flaking? If so, you may be dehydrated from low water intake, gotten too much sun, over-scrubbed your skin, or applied your products too thick or too often.

Do not scrub off dead skin cells. Washcloths, spa gloves, abrasive scrubs, brushes, buffing pads, alcohol-based astringents and rubbing with a towel can cause over-exfoliation, irritation, darkening, dead skin build-up and more flaking.

Follow directions carefully. Don’t overuse or underuse your home care. Ask for help if you need it.

Don’t slack up on prescribed home care. If we help you get clear, don’t think you’re so cute that you can quit using your products. You might stay clear for a while, but skipping home care products will allow the microscopic beginnings of pimples and ingrown hairs to form deep in your pores, causing more breakouts, which will lead to new dark spots.

Get refills (ask us about product upgrades) before you run out. Stock up before you go out of town. Don’t stop your regimen because you run out of one or two products.

Use sunscreen (with zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide) and reapply often when exposed to direct sunlight, including overcast skies, and when driving. Avoid direct sun and wear sunglasses. Sunscreen use helps keep dark spots, blotchy skin tone, and dark circles from darkening even more.

Drink more water to maintain healthy skin, fight fatigue, plump up fine lines, reduce dark circles, brighten your skin tone, and keep your skin from getting dry and irritated from active products. Drink at least half your body weight in ounces.

Stop picking, scratching and skin tampering! Women, get a set of acrylic nails, file them blunt, and maintain them every two weeks. Leave “stop picking” notes to yourself on mirrors, day planners, briefcases, desk drawers, rear view mirrors and in lockers. Picking pushes bumps deeper into the follicle, slows the healing process, invites secondary infection, introduces airborne bacteria, causes thickened, dark dead skin build-up and scarring, and turns tiny bumps into huge brown, black or red blemishes that take forever to heal and fade.

Tell us about changes in your skin, health, medical history, medications, lifestyle, home address, email address and phone number.

Use ice to reduce inflammation. Rub ice cubes in a circular motion on red, inflamed pimples and hair bumps twice a day for two minutes. This really helps!

Avoid fragrance, including skin care, hair and body products, scented aftershave, aromatherapy products, perfumed detergents, soaps, lotions and fabric softeners. Sunburn, rashes, acne, dark blemishes and dark “staining” of the skin can develop, especially on sun-exposed skin.

Severe “photo-sensitivity” can be caused by prescription medication, which leads to skin darkening, unsightly brown patches, blotchiness, hyperpigmented acne, darkening of existing scars, and uneven skin tone on the outer cheeks, neck, eye area, forehead, temples, knuckles, chest and other areas. These meds include all hormones: birth control pills, Depo-Provera® shots, NuvaRing®, OrthoEvra® patch, Mirena® IUDs with hormones and hormone replacement, oral anti-diabetic drugs, diuretics, blood pressure meds, antihistamines, antibiotics, Accutane®, retinoids (Retin A®, Differin Gel® and Tazorac®) and anti-depressants. Weight gain can also cause darkening of the skin tone.

Some medications cause acne including lithium, hormones (oral contraceptives, Provera®, DepoProvera®, PremPro®, progesterone, Lupron Depot®, Errin®, Ortho Mictronor®, Mirena® IUD, Nuvaring ®, OrthoEvra® patch), systemic steroids and anti-rejection meds (prednisone), testosterone precursors (androstendione, DHEA) and anti-convulsives (Dilantin, Tegreto®l).

Medical conditions: Thyroid, liver and kidney disease, diabetes, lupus, scleroderma, sarcoidosis, RA, MS and other auto-immune diseases, hemochromatosis (storing too much iron), obesity and rapid weight gain, menopause, peri-menopause, pregnancy, PCOS, hormonal imbalances and changes, anemia and smoking can cause delayed healing and sun-sensitivity resulting in darkening of the entire face or outer cheeks, forehead, upper lip, neck and orbital eye area, and slow-to-heal skin lesions, including acne and dark blemishes.

Acne mechanica is caused by (a) friction (rubbing), (b) pressure and (c) occlusion (restricted air flow), which results in deep acne and ingrowns, scalp bumps and severe darkening. Avoid friction, like leaning on your hand or phone, sleeping on your hand or arm, wearing tight doo-rags, wave caps, sleeping scarves, hats, caps, visors, headbands (and moving them up and down on the forehead). More trouble: Poor-fitting glasses, football helmets, tight bra straps and bands, leaning and putting more pressure on one side of your butt as you sit, heavy shoulder bags and backpacks, clothing with chemical additives, over-scrubbing and rubbing with a towel. Use a Bluetooth® device, headset, speakerphone or ear bud.

Pore-clogging chemicals: Avoid products with the fatty acid IPM (isopropyl myristate) and its chemical cousins, including isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl lanolate, myristal myristate, isopropyl isothermal, isostearyl neopentonate and more. Other cloggers are sodium chloride (salt), algae, potassium chloride, decyl oleate, oleic acid, oleyl alcohol, octyl stearate, octyl palmitate and isocetyl stearate and PPG myristyl propionate, sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium laureth sulfate, laureth-4, lanolin and acetylated lanolin, sodium chloride (salt), algae, most natural butters and oils, except fragrance-free safflower, sunflower and mineral oil.

Evaluate all hair products, wefted hair and loose hair if breakouts are concentrated on the hairline, forehead, temples, sides of the face, neck and jawline, sideburns, scalp, behind the ears or upper back. Whatever you put in your hair will migrate onto your skin. You perspire when you toss and turn in your sleep, get stressed, rush through your day, climb stairs and exercise. Human hair should be shampooed before your weave or braids. The chemicals in synthetic and human hair can cause itching, rashes and acne. Hairspray must be light and unscented; cover your face with a cheap paper plate before you spray. This trick won’t work with oil sheen, braid spray or scented hairspray.

Avoid: (1) pressing creams, butters and oils; (2) oil-sheen, hairspray and braid spray; (3) mousse; (4) locking wax (except hard bees wax); 5) curl activator; (6) scalp grease; (7) brown gel; (8) scented gel; (9) keratin treatments and protein conditioners; (10) aromatherapy oils; (11) oil (see below).

Problem oils: Coconut oil, cocoa butter, sweet almond oil, carrot oil, olive oil, apricot kernel oil, palm kernel oil, argan oil, Moroccan oil, vitamin E oil, grapeseed oil, wheat germ oil, aromatherapy oil blends, fragranced oils and many other oils.

Safe oils: Fragrance-free sunflower oil, safflower oil, petrolatum and low concentrations of jojoba oil.

Avoid these product lines if you’re acne prone: Abba, Affirm, African Pride, Argan Oil, Aussie, Aveda, Avlon, Bed Head, Bee’s Wax hair products, Biosilk, Blue Magic, Bone Straight, Botanicals, Bumble & Bumble, Care Free (except Care Free Lite), Carol’s Daughter, Carrot Oil, Circle of Friends, CitreShine, Crème of Nature, Curl Junkie, D’arcy’s Botanicals, Dark & Lovely, Davines, Design Essentials, Deva, Doo Gro, Dr. Miracles, Dove, Dudley, Duke, Enjoi, Enjoy, Garnier Fructis, Glover’s, Goldwell, His Mix (Mixed Chicks for Men), IC, Influance, Isoplus, Jessicurl, JLife, JML, Joico, Kemi Oyl, Kenra, Keracare, Kerapro, Kinky-Curly, Kiti Kiti, Let’s Jam, Luster, Mane and Tail, Marrakech Oil, Matrix, Miss Jessie’s Curly Pudding, Mixed Chicks, Mizani, Mop, Moroccanoil, Motions, Murray’s, Nairobi, Neutrogena T-Gel, Nexxus, Nioxin Protectives, Olive Oil products, One Better “Instant Shine” Finishing Gloss, Optimum, Organic Root Stimulator, Pantene Relaxed & Natural, Paul Mitchell and generics, Philosophy, Phyto, Pink Oil, Proclaim, Proline, ProStyle (except Clear Ice), Purology, Redken, S Curl, Sensitive by Nature, Soft Sheen “Optimum Oil Therapy”, Sportin’ Waves, Suave, Sulfur 8, TCB Hair Food, Talijah Wahid, Tresemme, Warm Spirit and Wen.

Safe hair products: Neutrogena T-Sal Shampoo, Pantene Pro V “Smooth”, “Color”, “Classic Care” and “Curls” conditioners, Care Free Lite Gel Activator, Clinical Formula Self-Emulsifying Oil, Gabriel Correctives shampoo, conditioner and laminate, Free & Clear shampoo, conditioner and gel, Original Formula Infusium 23 leave-in, L’Anza leave-in, ProStyl Clear Ice, American Crew Firm Hold Gel, Vanicream, Vaseline, sunflower oil and safflower oil.

Scalp issues: Scaling, inflammation and/or itching on the scalp, hairline, ears, brows, forehead or side of the nose? You may have seborrhea or seborrheic dermatitis, common genetic conditions that are easy to treat. Part of an oily, acne prone, sensitive skin profile, they worsen dramatically (a) in cold weather, (b) during stressful times, (c) when using harsh soaps and perfumes and (d) with infrequent shampooing.

Ignoring these issues can lead to moderate-to-severe dandruff, unsightly scaling, reddening of the inner cheeks, forehead and hairline, hyper-sensitive skin, a pink or light-pigmented patchy rash, tiny red bumps on the face and scalp, an itchy scalp, thinning hair and hair loss (brows, scalp and eyelashes). We can help you with this.

Toothpaste can cause small breakouts and darkening around and below the corners of the mouth, especially if it contains sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), tarter control, fluoride and aromatic flavors. Keep toothpaste in your mouth, where it belongs. If it gets on your skin, use cleanser to remove it. Look for SLS-free toothpaste.

Workout wear should be cotton and laundered in fragrance-free detergent with no fabric softener. Shower after perspiring with sulfur soap or BPO wash.

Warning: Don’t use a brush, scratch your scalp (or let a stylist do so), pat or rub your scalp. Thinning hair, itching, dead skin build-up, inflamed sores and bumps will only get worse. Low thread count pillowcases can thin fragile hair on the side you sleep, so switch to satin, silk or high count cotton. Pick white if you’re using benzoyl peroxide (BPO).

Avoid recreational drugs, especially marijuana, cocaine, X and speed, which can aggravate acne, especially if you’re a picker. Alcohol consumption doesn’t cause your acne to worsen unless you’re too drunk to apply your home care products.

Avoid oily cosmetics and skin care products: FD & C red dyes in foundations, blushes, lipstick and powders, MAC foundations and powders (especially Studio Fix), Shiseido, Lancôme, Estee Lauder, L’Oreal, Chanel, Flori Roberts, Fashion Fair, Posner, Iman and other cosmetics. Re-evaluate your cosmetics and moisturizers if breakouts continue. Oil-free products may be free of natural oils, but contain “synthetic oils” known as fatty acids. Avoid make-up that sticks to the sink when you wash it off. Safe FD&C red dye alternative: Iron oxides. Safe make-up examples: Dermacolor Cover Cream, Everyday Minerals, PRIIA and Jane Iredale. Mineral make-up should be free of fragrance, oil, fatty acids, red dyes and bismuth oxychloride.

Hormones are linked to breakouts and hyperpigmentation, including low estrogen birth control pills, Norplant®, OrthoEvra® IUD, Provera, Depo Provera®, Lupron Depot® (testosterone), progesterone-only pills (Errin®, Ortho Mictronor® and others), Premarin®, PremPro®, polycystic ovarian syndrome (PCOS), hormonal changes, fibroids, imbalances, irregular periods, PMS/PMDD and obesity (fat cells can boost the body’s estrogen production). OrthoTricyclan®, Yaz® and Yasmin®, advertised to help clear acne, don’t live up to the claims, and can cause breakouts, dry eye, sun sensitivity, melasma and other major health problems. HMOs routinely make contraceptive substitutions that are cheaper for them, but not true generics. Want an IUD? Choose the hormone-free T-shaped copper IUD over Mirena®.

Pregnancy, post-partum and menstrual cycles can cause hormonal flare-ups. Use a calendar to chart your cycle. Practice diligent skin care and suncare throughout the month. Pay close attention to your lifestyle to counteract problems during these times. Avoid direct sun. Protect your neck (which darkens) and face (watch for dark melasma patches). Pregnant and lactating women should discontinue retinoids, antibiotics and hydroquinone, and discuss nutritional supplements and recent Accutane® (isotretinoin) use with their physician.

The material on this website is provided for educational purposes only, and is not to be used for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment.

Acne Keloidalis

Kat — Sat, 30 Jan 2010 22:30:18 +0000

Those Painful, Scarring “Back-of-the-Neck” and Scalp Bumps

Acne keloidalis nuchae (deep pockets of inflammation buried under keloid scars), also called acne keloiditis (sore, pustular bumps) or AKN, affects the occipital scalp area, back of the neck, and in some cases, the entire scalp. This condition usually first appear and then flare up when black men get their hair cut close to the scalp with unsanitized clippers and trimmers.

A painful and disfiguring scalp problem, it’s fueled by low haircuts, failure to disinfect equipment, the rapid spread of bacteria and chronic inflammation. Lesions frequently erupt, ooze and bleed during sleep and after showering. Left untreated, they often “morph” into raised scars that swell, throb, itch, spread, and cause permanent disfiguring scars and hair loss in the involved area.

Contaminated equipment and frequent haircuts in non-compliant barbershops, or by unlicensed roving neighborhood ‘barbers’ or jailhouse barbers, put men at a higher risk for AKN. It‘s not uncommon for contaminated clippers, trimmers, blades and attachments to have been used on tens of dozens of clients without being properly sanitized.

In the late 50s and 60s, most black men sported the low “quo vadis” hairstyle, and I can’t recall seeing a single case of AKN on any of my homeys back in the day. More recently, one of my longtime clients, a successful rapper/producer, relocated to the East Coast. He frequented two barbershops while he lived in Oakland and never suffered from AKN. Shortly after he moved, he got on a plane and came by to see me. Almost overnight, his smooth scalp had become unsightly and inflamed because his new barber failed to sanitize his equipment between clients.

Most short hairstyles, from the old school fades to the low, tapered and bald looks, require maintenance on a weekly or biweekly basis to look well-groomed. Frequent haircuts, bigger crowds in barbershops and busy barbers skipping the sanitation process between clients, helps spread the bacteria that causes AKN and the chronic inflammation that incites the development of permanent keloid scars.

AKN rarely occurs, or worsens if it exists, when folks (a) cut their own hair, sanitize religiously and don’t share clippers, (b) take their own equipment to the barbershop, or (c) go to a shop that is diligent about sanitizing. I’ve discovered, with very few exceptions, that barbers either have a low-to-non-existent incidence of AKN, or it occurs on a daily basis, spreading like wildfire to the shop’s clients. Either barbers sanitize thoroughly, or they don’t.

Traditional medicine provides either minimal relief or disappointing results in the vast majority of cases. Standard medical treatment includes (a.) oral antibiotics, systemic drugs used to treat a localized follicular disorder, (b.) retinoid creams, peeling agents that lack anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, (c.) a series of painful corticosteroid (Kenalog) injections into the bumps, designed to shrink scar tissue with often disappointing results, often worsening the condition, and (d.) scar revision surgery, designed to remove the entire involved area with a single incision, many if which become thick, protruding, cigar-shaped hypertrophic scars when they heal.

As an inner-city skin care professional who has managed hundreds of AKN cases, I’ve helped countless men control, and sometimes even “erase” this preventable condition. During the initial consultation, I describe this scenario: “So, you go into the shop because you need a haircut or maybe just a quick taper and line. Several licensed barbers are buzzing away at a dozen scalps before one of them turns, looks directly at you and says: ‘Next!….I mean you, bra.’ And, after they call you to the chair, do you always witness a thorough sanitation of every clipper and liner blade and attachment before you get a haircut or a line? Well, do you?” This quick speech is usually met with stunned silence.

Exercise your rights. Insist that your barber follow standard sanitation procedures and disinfect combs, brushes and plastic clipper attachments in Barbicide and thoroughly spray clipper and trimmer blades, scissors, guards, metal attachments and even that little brush used to remove hair from clipper blades, between each and every client.

Early detection and appropriate treatment are crucial to the clearing process and will prevent scarring and hair loss. Try to compromise on that totally bald look for a while. Allow your hair to grow out a bit and wear that “low” style for a quick minute to speed up the healing process.

Important: Unhealthy lifestyle habits can aggravate AKN, including picking, scratching, rubbing with a towel and other forms of skin tampering, tight baseball caps, direct sun, obesity or being overweight, marijuana, extreme stress, lack of sleep, slacking up on corrective home care, and dietary iodides, including salt, milk, cheese, fast food, processed food, soups, sports drinks and salty snacks.

Follow prescribed home treatment exactly as directed, make important lifestyle changes, keep your weight in check, avoid direct sun, and call a halt to all the picking, rubbing and scratching. If you do, your mild-to-moderate case will improve dramatically. Even a severe case of AKN will begin to calm down.

Professional treatments can help exfoliate smaller bumps and soften, thin out and lighten scar tissue. Frequent follow-up visits, emails and phone calls allow us to evaluate your progress and product usage and monitor your lifestyle until clearing is achieved and maintained.

The material on this website is provided for educational purposes only, and is not to be used for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment.