The debate has always been heated among skin care specialists and dermatologists as to the risks and benefits of scrubbing one’s face and body parts. There is a danger of creating microscopic tears and abrading the skin if a scrub contains granules with irregular edges (crushed walnut shells or apricot pits) or if too much pressure is used with any method of exfoliation, friction or scrubbing action.

Washcloths vs. Scrubs vs. Astringent/Cotton vs. Buffing Pads: There are pitfalls to every exfoliation method, friction, pressure and skin tampering technique, especially on darker, thin, post-operative or sensitive skin.

Who’s at Risk: Sensitive and thin-skinned individuals, people of color, post-operative skin (laser, deep dermabrasion and peels) and those using or over-using shaving powder or other hair removal chemicals, retinoids, Accutane, benzoyl peroxide, BHA (salicylic acid), glycolic acid and other AHAs and sun-sensitive skin. Because many active ingredients and professional treatments can cause temporary superficial flaking and/or peeling, the temptation to “speed up” the process by scouring off their dead skin cells can be irresistible.

Abrading and tampering with the skin manually, including scrubs, buffing pads, loofahs, rubbing with a washcloths or towels, picking, scratching, patting, using alcohol and cotton, scraping the skin while shaving, being shaved or removing shaving powders, wearing tight, binding or ill-fitting hats, clothing, boots and shoes, microdermabrasion and/or using excessive pressure for any reason, can temporarily “over-process” the skin. Applying “active” products and exposure to UV rays on irritated skin can turn mild flaking into excessive scaling and prolonged irritation. This can “activate” the melanocytes in the basal layer of the skin (the cells that provide your natural coloration) and incite an unnecessary increase in pigmentation problems, especially if skin is exposed to continued sunlight, scrubbing, rubbing, friction, pressure, picking, or product overuse. Repeated manipulation, friction and skin tampering can slow down the healing process, introduce bacteria, and cause epidermal cells on and around blemishes to thicken, darken, and get larger as the body struggles to defend itself from constant “self-assault”.

Unwelcome Results: Side effects include temporary redness, burning, prolonged scaling, increased sun-sensitivity, a thick build-up dead skin cells, pigmentation problems and an uneven skin tone. Symptoms can last anywhere from a few days to a few months.

Warning to People of Color: Abrasion caused by overzealous manual exfoliation, scrubbing too often, scraping the skin, using too much pressure, picking, scratching, rubbing with a towel, wearing tight headwear, clothing or footwear, exposure to sun and lack of adequate water intake can leave temporary hyperpigmentation in its wake. You can’t scrub the “black” off your skin, or someone else’s skin! And, you can’t scrub, scrape or pick off thickened dead skin cells. This situation will only worsen, and will improve dramatically when you stop.

Better Yet: Use home care products exactly as directed. To combat flaking, try sulfur mask, a mild, non-mechanical exfoliant that will “passively” dissolve dead skin cells. Apply a generous coat and allow it to remain on the skin for as long as it remains wet, without letting it dry out. Shower or rinse it off with warm water and gentle pressure from fingertips only. Stop scrubbing. Back off using or over-using active home exfoliants and moisturize more often. Ask us about other methods to help exfoliate dead skin cells without traumatizing your skin.                                                                                                                           

Safer Scrubs: Scrubs containing finely-ground meal (like cornmeal), papaya enzyme creams, man-made jojoba beads, fine polyethylene granules, soaps containing powdered exfoliants, and tiny marble spheres have a smooth, uniform surface, won’t tear delicate skin. Keep in mind that scrubbing, product overuse, frictions of any kind, and/or applying too much pressure on even slightly irritated skin can still cause problems!

Experienced skin care professionals can perform light skin peels or gentle enzymes formulated for sensitive skin if you need to exfoliate. Exfoliants designed for home use are safe bets and can safely boost skin-smoothing results, if and only if they are used exactly as directed.

©2008, 2010, 2011 Kathryn Khadija Leverette

The material on this website is provided for educational purposes only, and is not to be used for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment.

Dull skin? This common complaint is easy to correct by adding a few specialty products, tweaking your home care and making simple lifestyle changes. We can modify your cleansing and skin care routine during the colder months or if you live in a dry climate or hard water area. Gentler cleansers, milder exfoliants and moisturizing products can help you get that glow back.

Lower the heat at night, crack the windows, wear cotton flannel sleepwear and warm socks, and use an electric blanket, mattress warmer, extra blankets or a comforter to keep warm.

Cool mist humidifiers hydrate the skin, scalp and sinuses. This is an inexpensive way to moisturize and improve your breathing as you sleep.

Don’t use space heaters! They “fry” and darken your skin tone and dehydrate your entire body. The same is true for fireplaces, so use them only occasionally. Stay far away! Dress warmly, and only use a space heater to warm up a room before you go in, and then turn it off! Better yet, bag it up and put it in the garage.

Increase water intake dramatically, especially if you drink coffee, tea and alcoholic beverages or take any medication. Water intake hydrates the body and helps brighten skin tone and under-eye circles, soften fine lines and wrinkles, reduce puffiness and bloat, calm irritation, relieve dryness, prevent chapped lips, improve digestion, curb appetite, increase mobility and boost energy.

Puffy eyes can be reduced by getting more sleep, elevating your upper body while you sleep, drinking more water, cutting back on alcohol, salt, take-out and processed foods, eliminating dairy from your diet, using a sinus wash twice a day, and keeping the heat low or off while you sleep.

Avoid long hot showers and baths, and don’t stand or sit close to heaters, fireplaces and hot ovens.

Hard water can be devastating to your skin, especially during the colder months. Chlorine, minerals, sulfates and other chemicals can dry you out, darken your skin tone, cause rashes and ashy skin, trash your hair, and trigger acne and eczema flare-ups. Filtered showerheads and handheld sprayers can make hard water feel like rainwater, soften your skin and hair, and eliminate those hard-to-remove limescale spots.

MrWaterFilter.com carries a huge selection of water filters and systems at reasonable prices. They’ll help you select appropriate filtering equipment for your skin concerns, dwelling type and geographical area.

Sunscreen and sunglasses are crucial to help preserve your skin tone, prevent dark circles, brighten dark spots and beard shadowing, stop premature aging of the skin, and to prevent age spots, spider veins and skin cancer. UVA penetrates clouds and car windows, so don’t be fooled.

Sinus rinses deliver dramatic benefits by (a) hydrating sinus passages and mucus membranes, (b) relieving congestion, pressure and nasal dryness, and (c) washing out mucus, crust, bacteria, viruses, dust, pollen, pet dander, mold, debris and particulate pollutants. For maximum benefits, be consistent. Do this when you brush your teeth. Other benefits when used daily include clearer vision from clean tear ducts, brighter skin tone around the eyes, less puffiness, reduced allergy, sinus and cold symptoms, fewer headaches, decreased need for medication, deeper, more relaxed breathing, better sleep, improved sense of taste and smell and sweeter breath.

Sinus rinses and net pots are available at pharmacies and health food stores and online at NeilMed.com. Google terms like sinus rinse, nasal irrigation, neti pot and NeilMedfor more information. See a demo at NeilMed.com or search sinus rinse or neti pot on YouTube.

Seborrhea and seborrheic dermatitis flare up in colder weather and during stressful times. Symptoms affect the skin and scalp and include extreme sensitivity, redness, inflammation and small bumps, flaking, itching, crust on the scalp and ears, peeling on the forehead, hairline, brows, inner cheeks and sides of nose, and a light or red rash, especially on the inner cheeks and hairline. Avoid strong soaps, fragrances and toners with alcohol. Wash your hair and ears at least once a week with a deflaking shampoo. Don’t scratch your scalp or allow your stylist or barber to do so. This condition is easy to treat and symptoms will  begin to improve almost immediately. Ask us about our specialized product line formulated for seborrhea and sensitivity.

Stop smoking and avoid secondhand smoke, including pipes, cigars, blunts, weed, incense and fireplace smoke, which dehydrate your skin from the inside out and cause dark circles, respiratory problems, dehydration, dry skin and sinuses, dull skin tone, sagging skin, fine lines, deep wrinkles, premature aging, dry mouth and bad breath, as well as severe health consequences like heart disease, high blood pressure, lung cancer, mouth and throat cancers, emphysema and stroke.

Don’t scrub your skin. Take a gentler approach to cleansing your skin. Over-scrubbing, using spa gloves, rubbing with a towel and other types of friction will lead to irritation, dryness, flaking and darkening.

Omega 3 essential fatty acids and vitamin E improve your health and help reduce the inflammation, dryness and flaking of seborrhea, eczema, psoriasis, itchy rashes, ichtyosis and dry skin. Salmon, flax seeds, walnuts are excellent omega 3 food sources. Other sources include cauliflower, cabbage, halibut, shrimp, cod, tuna, soybeans, tofu, kale, Brussels sprouts and collard greens. Supplement your dietary intake with flax seed oil, enteric-coated fish oil capsules and vitamin E supplements. Check with your physician if you take other medications.

© 2010 Kathryn Khadija Leverette

The material on this website is provided for educational purposes only, and is not to be used for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment.