Avoiding the Pitfalls of Mechanical Exfoliation
The debate has always been heated among skin care specialists and dermatologists as to the risks and benefits of scrubbing one’s face and body parts. There is a danger of creating microscopic tears and abrading the skin if a scrub contains granules with irregular edges (crushed walnut shells or apricot pits) or if too much pressure is used with any method of exfoliation, friction or scrubbing action.
Washcloths vs. Scrubs vs. Astringent/Cotton vs. Buffing Pads: There are pitfalls to every exfoliation method, friction, pressure and skin tampering technique, especially on darker, thin, post-operative or sensitive skin.
Who’s at Risk: Sensitive and thin-skinned individuals, people of color, post-operative skin (laser, deep dermabrasion and peels) and those using or over-using shaving powder or other hair removal chemicals, retinoids, Accutane, benzoyl peroxide, BHA (salicylic acid), glycolic acid and other AHAs and sun-sensitive skin. Because many active ingredients and professional treatments can cause temporary superficial flaking and/or peeling, the temptation to “speed up” the process by scouring off their dead skin cells can be irresistible.
Abrading and tampering with the skin manually, including scrubs, buffing pads, loofahs, rubbing with a washcloths or towels, picking, scratching, patting, using alcohol and cotton, scraping the skin while shaving, being shaved or removing shaving powders, wearing tight, binding or ill-fitting hats, clothing, boots and shoes, microdermabrasion and/or using excessive pressure for any reason, can temporarily “over-process” the skin. Applying “active” products and exposure to UV rays on irritated skin can turn mild flaking into excessive scaling and prolonged irritation. This can “activate” the melanocytes in the basal layer of the skin (the cells that provide your natural coloration) and incite an unnecessary increase in pigmentation problems, especially if skin is exposed to continued sunlight, scrubbing, rubbing, friction, pressure, picking, or product overuse. Repeated manipulation, friction and skin tampering can slow down the healing process, introduce bacteria, and cause epidermal cells on and around blemishes to thicken, darken, and get larger as the body struggles to defend itself from constant “self-assault”.
Unwelcome Results: Side effects include temporary redness, burning, prolonged scaling, increased sun-sensitivity, a thick build-up dead skin cells, pigmentation problems and an uneven skin tone. Symptoms can last anywhere from a few days to a few months.
Warning to People of Color: Abrasion caused by overzealous manual exfoliation, scrubbing too often, scraping the skin, using too much pressure, picking, scratching, rubbing with a towel, wearing tight headwear, clothing or footwear, exposure to sun and lack of adequate water intake can leave temporary hyperpigmentation in its wake. You can’t scrub the “black” off your skin, or someone else’s skin! And, you can’t scrub, scrape or pick off thickened dead skin cells. This situation will only worsen, and will improve dramatically when you stop.
Better Yet: Use home care products exactly as directed. To combat flaking, try sulfur mask, a mild, non-mechanical exfoliant that will “passively” dissolve dead skin cells. Apply a generous coat and allow it to remain on the skin for as long as it remains wet, without letting it dry out. Shower or rinse it off with warm water and gentle pressure from fingertips only. Stop scrubbing. Back off using or over-using active home exfoliants and moisturize more often. Ask us about other methods to help exfoliate dead skin cells without traumatizing your skin.
Safer Scrubs: Scrubs containing finely-ground meal (like cornmeal), papaya enzyme creams, man-made jojoba beads, fine polyethylene granules, soaps containing powdered exfoliants, and tiny marble spheres have a smooth, uniform surface, won’t tear delicate skin. Keep in mind that scrubbing, product overuse, frictions of any kind, and/or applying too much pressure on even slightly irritated skin can still cause problems!
Experienced skin care professionals can perform light skin peels or gentle enzymes formulated for sensitive skin if you need to exfoliate. Exfoliants designed for home use are safe bets and can safely boost skin-smoothing results, if and only if they are used exactly as directed.
©2008, 2010, 2011 Kathryn Khadija Leverette
The material on this website is provided for educational purposes only, and is not to be used for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment.
